12/5/99
It is a rainy cloudy day in Nairobi and I had hoped
to go soaring today. I left home on Tuesday 30 November
and flew to Dulles, Washington where I attended a three-day
Symposium honoring 50 years of Joanne Simpson's career.
The symposium was held at NA SA Goddard. Some of the
talks like mine were a mix of science and anecdotes
of experiences working for Joanne. I reviewed the evolution
of cloud modeling since the early 70's when I worked
for Joanne to the present. Other talks were almost all
overviewing the achievements of Joanne and her role
in the meteorological community. Now, I can take a half
day of such things but three days of that sort of thing
really got to be old. Still it was good seeing many
old friends and colleagues and getting a glimpse o f
the science they are involved in now days too.
Friday afternoon I left in plenty of time to get to
the airport for my 6:30PM flight. I flew with Sabena
Airline, which is a Belgium airline. The equipment was
a very new looking Airbus. It had individual LCD displays
of videos, video games, and movies , which one had to
pay $5 for, and a control box that one could remove
from its seat and activate through an attached cord.
It took about half the 6.5-hour flight to Belgium to
figure out how to use it! I had a two-hour layover in
Brussels and then on f or an 8-hour flight to a city
1-hour west of Nairobi, which I had never heard of before,
and didn't see it anyway, as it was after dark. After
a 1-hour layover, we flew the hour to Nairobi arriving
there after 11:00PM. I had been told that Joseph Mukabana
or his designee was supposed to meet me so when I came
out of customs I entered this open area with a fence
separating those coming out from friends and numerous
people trying to get you to take a taxi or whatever.
Well, I kept looking and looking for so meone I recognized
and decided after a while I was on my own. Now you have
to understand everyone I have talked to about Nairobi
told me to be extra careful. But I finally broke through
the crowd of people that resembled a group of sharps
circling for the kill. They kept trying to get me to
come with them but I went to a taxi stand and got a
taxi to my hotel, the Nairobi Safari Club. As we entered
the city it started to rain quite heavily, and in one
spot we hit a deep puddle and I feared the car would
ge t flooded out. But it kept going and after midnight
I made it into my room and got a night's rest.
In the morning Joseph called me to see if I got in
all right. He apparently stayed there until after midnight
and I guess he walked away from the shark-like crowd
to ask about me and that must have been when I entered
the shark cage. He also had my fli ght confused with
my associates, Bob and Craig who took a KLM flight which
arrived 1 hour earlier (for them the next day) than
my Sabena flight. So, he checked with KLM and found
I wasn't on it.
In spite of the fact it was raining cats and dogs,
I then called Yellow Wings Air services to see if it
made sense at all about considering flying up to Mweiga
where the glider operation that Tim McCallister recommended
is located. They said they woul d call Peter and Petra
Allmendinger, owners and operators of the commercial
soaring club. About an hour later, 9:45AM, I got a call
back that it was reasonably clear up there and it was
expected to clear even in Nairobi. So I grabbed a taxi
and headed to Wilson field where I met the pilot, Stefan,
and we cranked up an old Cessna 172. After climbing
up to 8500', Stefan let me take the controls and I flew
the remainder of the 45-minute flight. Except for a
mountain pass area, the whole landscape was covered
by one small farm after another. I climbed up to 9500'
over the pass and then let down dodging cumulus clouds.
Stefan assured me that it would clear up near Mweiga
as it generally does. However, as we got closer, I could
detect a loss of confidence in hi s optimism. A mid-level
stratus- deck covered the entire area.
I gather it had been raining rather regularly for about
a month, as the grass was quite green all over the area.
We landed to in a 15kt cross wind. Two gliders were
set up on the north end of the runway next to a grass-roofed
ramada. Both planes were t wins, one a K-13 and the
other an open cockpit Slingsby T-21. That is probably
a 40-year-old plane that looks like a dragonfly when
viewed from the front. It has dual oval shaped wind
screens that resemble those on British sports cars of
the same era. The wing is elevated above the fuselage
on a pod of sorts. I had always thought that would be
an interesting ship to fly and it appeared I might get
the chance.
Getting out of the Cessna I introduced myself to Peter
and Petra. They are a very friendly couple and both
are Germans. They had the winch setup for a southerly
takeoff, but the winds shifted and they had to switch
the whole operation end-for-end. This involved moving
the winch and cable doe-see-doe, hooking both gliders
at once on an old Mini-Moke and dragging them to the
other end. We hardly moved 10' when the Moke ran out
of gas. So a beat up VW bug was brought down which couldn't
move very slow so it was a jog to the other end of the
runway.
Peter then took a couple, one at a time, on scenic
flights in the T-21. Peter later said that the T-21
is very popular for scenics, especially on nice warm
days. Then it was my turn. As the previous flights were
only 15 minutes or so, I didn't expect much of a flight,
but flying the T-21 would be an experience anyway. With
Peter following through with me, we got a good winch
flick to 1100'. Peter suggested I turn into the weak
thermal we encountered just before release. Now the
T-21 is a very differen t bird to fly compared to anything
I have flown previously. Turns on the roll-axis are
so stiff I felt I needed two hands on the stick! Moreover,
once you get it to bank into a turn sharply it feels
like it is going to roll over on its back into a spin!
I t took me a while to get the hang of the beast. If
you didn't kick in appropriate rudder, down that wing
would drop and I'd be looking straight at the ground
through its open sides! I didn't need to look at the
yaw string when I slipped and skidded as I w ould get
a blast of fresh air in my face---wham!
But we scratched away in those little thermals and
eventually gained some altitude. Then Peter said it
looks like "the" shear-line or convergence
line was coming through for the first time this year.
At the leading edge of the line of cumuli, clouds we
re thin and wispy and behind it normal towering cumuli
grew to 8000 or 9000'. The best lift, however, was not
beneath the bigger cu but instead beneath the wispy
cu. In fact we encountered strong enough lift to launch
us several thousand feet above the to wering cumuli,
reaching 11,000'. Remember this is an open cockpit plane,
so we were freezing our butts up there. I would work
back and forth along the leading edge of the convergence
line above the wispy cu much like working a wave. This
line behaved simi lar to a "bore-like" wave
much like the famous Australian Morning Glory. I looked
at aircraft charts trying to understand what triggered
this bore. Behind the bore front the airmass was definitely
different than in front as it was moister, hazier, and
eve n smelled different. But the coast is some 600km
away and the terrain slopes gently up to the ridges
near Mount Kenya, so it doesn't appear to be a bore
triggered on a sea-breeze front interacting with steep
topography. It was moving between Mount Kenya t o the
east and another mountain range to the west whose name
I forget. After a while, the cu behind the leading wispy
line began looking ragged and I found weaker lift. It
appeared the bore- front grew shallower and ran ahead
of the cu line, then after a few minutes, it appeared
to retrench back to the cu. After almost an hour the
lift got weaker and we began descending to the airport.
When flying the T-21 one has to keep a sharp eye out
so that you don't drift very far downwind. This plane
thermals at ab out 32kts and 45kts is probably its best
L/D. Faster than that it drops like a rock. My comment
about my Grob G-109B penetrating like a D-9 Catapillar
is very appropriate for the T-21 as well!
I pretty much landed it on my own slipping it with
the wind on my face. Flying the T-21 was certainly a
fun experience, especially having that bore-like convergence
line to keep us aloft for over an hour. I felt I needed
a derrick to get me out of the plane once on the ground,
as my butt was sore and muscles in one leg had knotted
up. I wouldn't call the T-21 the most comfortable ship
to fly in.
Now I'll have to go home and run RAMS to figure out
what kicks off that bore, or get Joseph Mukabana to
run it over the area with sufficiently high resolution.
Stefan and I got back into the Cessna and then overflew
Peter and Petra's guest-house/ home about 3 miles from
the airport. The house is a double-peaked large southern-
German looking house in an open plain with a nice view
of Mount Kenya. I'd like to bring Vollie back there
sometime to stay a week or so, hiking Mount Kenya and,
me of course, soaring. I understand that elephants and
other wild things can often be seen from their veranda.
They have seen leopard prints in the yard but never
seen one. In fact, about 10 miles from there on the
way back I spied some elephants lounging in a muddy-looking
pond near a home.
We returned to Nairobi, skirting showers from a large
cumulonimbi, just before dark. I then took a taxi back
to the hotel where I had a nice fish dinner by myself.
12/6/99
It was back to work today as I was part of the introduction
ceremonies. I had hoped the meeting would be held at
the University of Nairobi campus, which is only a 5-minute
walk from the hotel. I explored the campus in my morning
jog. It is a pretty cam pus in a park-like atmosphere
with bouganvilla, flowering trees, and eucalyptus all
about. Instead we were bused across town to the Kenyan
Meteorological headquarters and training school. You
get the feeling you are entering a prison with guards
standing at the entrance and the place is surrounded
by a tall steel-post fence. Following some brief lectures
designed to consume time while we waited for the guest
of honor; we went to a hall where there were introductory
ceremonies. Bob, Craig, and I set up fr ont facing the
audience in a row of chairs behind the "big-wigs".
They handed us a program and guess what? I was on the
program for making remarks, the first time I had heard
of this. So, I welcomed the students and thanked Joseph
for giving me this oppo rtunity to escape snow! I mentioned
that I already had a chance to study their meteorology
during my soaring experience. Then others made comments
and we listened to a speech by the president of the
University of Nairobi.
Then Bob, Craig, and I attended the morning lectures,
which were held in a classroom with classroom desks
built for 7th graders in size. Not exactly comfortable,
but they at least kept us awake. Because the morning
lectures were rather basic, we decide d to spend the
rest of the day preparing our own lectures and laboratory
materials, e-mailing and the like. Since I am not scheduled
to lecture tomorrow, I've decided to go touring a bit.
For clarification, Bob is Bob Walko, a research associate
under bo th Roger Peilke and me where he is in charge
of RAMS model code development. Craig is Craig Tremback,
a research scientist with Mission Research Project,
and a PhD graduate under my supervision. Both he and
Bob are presented lectures on RAMS as well as me , and
they are also setting up a laboratory wherein students
in the class can run RAMS and perform various simulations
as part of the WMO-sponsored workshop.
The weather today was pleasant with temperatures in
the lower 70's, partly cloudy, and no rain. It reminds
me a bit of weather near San Juan, Costa Rico which
is also at high elevation. The vegetation here is similar
as well.
12/7/99
It rained heavily over night and there was a solid stratus
deck covering the plain. Bob and I took a jog around
campus and covered more of it than I did on the previous
morning. The streets felt rather slippery after the
rains. Following breakfast, I h eaded for a tour of
Nairobi National Park, while Bob and Craig set up the
laboratory software. As I mentioned before, the campus
is park-like and is covered with all sorts of tropical
trees and vegetation. It is in sharp contrast to the
city area we are s taying in which is all concrete or
mud/dirt walkways with little if any trees or vegetation.
The buildings in campus are pretty typical of those
found in universities and professional buildings in
third-world tropical latitudes. They are almost all
poure d concrete gray-looking structures, rectangular
and in various states of repair/decay. In the hill area
where the meteorology department exits, there stands
a building that was started and never finished because
of some contract dispute. The building wher e meteorology
exists, is one of those gray, poured concrete structures
with floors made of wood tiles that are broken up in
spots due to water damage. Joseph told us that, responding
to pressures for education from a ballooning youth populations,
two more universities have been built in Kenya which
puts greater competition on the University of Nairobi
to obtain funds for building maintenance and support
for research. There are some nice looking stone cottages
on campus whose function I never did find out and on
the main part of campus some of the buildings are red-brick
put still have pretty shoddy-appearing exteriors.
Nairobi National Park is the oldest national park in
Kenya, having been set up in something like 1946. It
is over 450 sq miles of rolling savanna located right
on the edge of the city. It cost me $80, plus tip, for
the half-day tour. A guy and driver m et me, with a
van at 8:30AM. I joked that this is not a matatu is
it? They said definitely not! A matatu is a mini-van
system that was set up many years ago to provide transportation
when the whole public transit system broke down. The
name matatu refers to the original 30-shilling price
they charged. They are still quite a bargain, price-wise,
but this is compensated by the fact that the drivers
stuff as many people as is possible, and then some,
into them. I mean you see people hanging out the side
wind ow somehow! I guess in their original form they
were pickup trucks with canvas covered benches in the
truck bed. They are very restless drivers, and whenever
I saw a fender-bender, a matatu was involved.
Anyway, the guy I paid got out and off the driver and
I went to the park. We entered the east entrance to
the park, which goes through an industrial area, and
the last 0.5-mile is on a muddy, mud puddle filled road.
Some of those puddles must have had 8 inches of water
in them! The entrance to the park has a guard house
and black steel gates and surrounding the park are 4
strands of probably high-voltage electric fence.
As I mentioned before the park is rolling savanna with
scattered whistling acacia about 3-4 foot tall with
large round cones that resemble some types of pine cones
a bit. Every so often there is a tree, probably in the
acacia family. About a mile into the park we passed
by several giraffes. They stayed close to the road and
didn't seem to mind our presence a bit. I think I got
some good pictures of them. Then we spied some impalas,
then more and by the time we left I must have seen hundreds
of them.
The road through the park is gravel and is in much
better shape than that 0.5 mile entrance drive. The
driver raised the pop-top of the mini-van so that I
could stand up and get a view of the landscape and any
critters that were on it. As we rolled alo ng one could
hear the continuous singing of numerous birds. Some
of the birds the driver new the name of were the widow
bird which has a red crest on its head and is about
the size of a grouse, a crested spur, and crested hawk.
I have no idea what the res t are called.
The animals I spied, some very close to the van, included
Jackson heart beast, a buffalo in the distance, warthogs
including a mother and two piglets. I also saw some
Thompson gazelles, which are beautiful deer-like animals
with black stripes along the ir sides, white bellies,
and brown backs. There were also grand gazelles, which
are larger and not as colorful as the Thompson's, elands,
the largest of the antelope family, waterbucks, and
a few rhinos in the distance. Now you have probably
seen them all in a zoo, but here they were all roaming
about in their natural habitat, only 20 miles at most
from the city. We dropped down into a valley where there
was a parking area near a stream. There, I was escorted
along a nature trail by a park employee carryi ng a
rifle for protection. The trail meandered through lush
green vegetation with some flowers scattered about and
numerous tall trees. He had hoped to show me a hippopotamus,
but they decided to find a pool elsewhere. I did see
a few turtles and a crocod ile lounging on a beach.
There were also three monkeys sunning themselves on
a large log. The guide said they were not people shy
so on the return on the trail we walked through the
bush so I could get close enough for me to take a picture.
But, people sh y or not, they hid on us.
Back on the road again, my driver was determined to
show me some lions, but this was not to be. So after
5 hours he returned me back to the hotel where I worked
on my lectures.
12/8/99
We had another rainy night in Nairobi. I didn't get
a chance to run this morning because it was raining
so hard. But, by the time we were picked up it had stopped
raining. By noon, however, it began raining heavily
again. This is definitely the wet sea son.
I gave a lecture on four-dimensional data (4DVAR) analysis
in the workshop today. Aside from my brief introductory
comments regarding the fundamental nature of 4DVAR being
similar to least-squares analysis, I felt that the slides
that Tomie gave me wen t right over their heads. Clearly
we all need to adjust our talks to a simpler level.
Eating here has been a challenge for me with my vegetarian/seafood
diet. Breakfast at the hotel is a big rip-off. Neither
Bob nor Craig ate there as a result. They have a buffet
with one side of the table being what appeared to be
a standard continent al breakfast and the other side
having eggs, meats, and other such things. Most restaurants
with such setups, charge a continental rate or a full
breakfast rate. Not, this place, everything is a la
cart up to a $15 buffet price. Bob tried the full English
breakfast and the bill came to about $15. I took the
continental breakfast and I found that they charge for
each item so I paid about $10 for mine. I found today
for example, taking a few slices of cheese meant I was
charged nearly $7 for the cheese plat e! I've never
seen such charges for breakfast anywhere. Because lunches
at the Met Institute are a preset menu, usually consisting
of some sort of meat dish for $10, I have decided to
skip lunch altogether. By contrast dinners at the hotel
and a restauran t we went to last night can be purchased
for under $10. Go figure! They are pretty good, although
the amounts don't make up for lack of lunch and a skimpy
breakfast. If I were pure vegetarian, I'd really be
in trouble as few if any vege dishes are offered . So,
I survive on fish and seafood. Well, I can use a diet
to make up for sitting in airplanes and being fed every
5 or 6 hours and finding it difficult to get as much
exercise in on my travels in general. Still eating is
part of the fun on these trips a nd it sure isn't as
much fun for me.
In the afternoon I lectured on cumulus parameterization,
mesoscale convective system parameterization, and parameterization
of the cloudy boundary layer. I lightened up the talk
a bit and used fewer equations, and as result I felt
the students got more out of it. The audience is quite
a mixed bag of backgrounds as far as I can tell. Many
are routine forecasters from Kenya and neighboring countries
and probably have marginal technical background. Others
have had more advanced technical backgrounds, and some
are even current graduate students. This makes it very
challenging to hit the right balance in the lectures.
I feel I got closer in the afternoon. I guess we'll
see how tomorrow goes.
By the time we finished for the day, it had cleared
up and the sky was partly cloudy. We had supper at our
hotel restaurant and the food was reasonably good. The
bill was only slightly greater than my breakfast here
and I had two glasses of wine. This is a weird place.
I hope the usual nocturnal rains don't hit tonight so
that I can get a run in before breakfast.
12/9/99
Finally it wasn't raining when I got up at 6:00AM. So
I got in a jog around the U of Nairobi campus. The air
is very humid so I got very wet from perspiration. By
the time I got back to the hotel, I could see clouds
rolling in from the east. When our c ar picked us up
it was raining heavily and it has remained overcast
with light drizzle throughout the morning. I am beginning
to realize how lucky I was to find great soaring on
Sunday. We are in the peak of the rainy season.
I lectured today in the morning on the bin-resolving
microphysics in RAMS and its application to a variety
of topics. Then in the afternoon I discussed our radiation
parameterization schemes and Costa's modeling work in
the tropical western Pacific, in which he coupled the
ocean mixed-layer with deep convection in RAMS. I felt
much better about today's lectures and in fact I had
some of the students express an interest in coming to
CSU for graduate study.
On our return we were driven by the site where the
U.S. embassy used to be. This is where Bin-Laden had
one of two U.S. embassies bombed. The remains of the
building were torn down and the building next to it
was totally destroyed. Another 15-20 story building
stands there without any windows. I gather 250 people
were killed by the blast. They are planning on putting
a memorial park at the site. One had plenty of time
to view the solid steel enclosure surrounding the bomb-site
as it was the worst traff ic jam I have seen so far
in Nairobi. Cars were moving inch by inch and people
were swarming across the streets every which way and
everywhere.
Nairobi as a town is not the most pleasant place I
have visited. Over 3 million people live here and it
has been hurriedly put together with most of the city
not having infrastructure to support them. Outside of
the bleak main downtown area with high-r ise buildings,
there are no sidewalks and I never did see a traffic
light working. While there are many people walking along
the sides of streets on dirt/mud paths, they must fight
their way across streets at traffic circles with much
congestion, one lane at a time, or just jay-walk through
the traffic when it is jammed. Public transit consists
of taxis, matatus, and overcrowded buses. Along the
busy streets are these hodgepodge of utility lines that
are often all wound together, lean down to the ground
i n places and I am amazed that telephones or electricity
carried by them ever works. There are some parks scattered
about but they are often worn bear in many spots by
walkers and street people hang out in them over night.
Only during the bright daylight i s it safe to walk
through them. Likewise, there are many parts of downtown
that are frequented by homeless people who stand about
or sleep stretched across the sidewalks anywhere and
everywhere. All the shops have these heavy steel roll-down
barricade fen ces, and are for the most part stalls
in dingy-looking poured concrete structures. Joseph
did take us to a very upscale shopping center, more
or less in the suburbs, that could have been anyplace
in the U.S. Also we were often driven along winding
back ro ads to the Met Training Center, where we could
see these nice large homes with brick facades, surrounded
by manicured gardens of tropical plants, and brick or
stone, or steel iron fences, with broken glass or speared
tops to them. So there are some very u pscale homes,
which I gather by U.S. standards, are not very expensive,
being in the low $100K range but totally out of the
reach of 99% of the population. Thus there is a great
division between the very rich and the poor.
That evening, Bob and I ventured out to supper at a
vegetarian Indian restaurant called the Mahur. My Kenya
guidebook recommended it highly. Craig had to work on
a proposal and tomorrows talks and doesn't seem to be
very enthusiastic about Indian food anyway, so he elected
not to come along. We asked the doorman at the hotel
to get us a cab. He made quite a fuss about getting
us the right cab driver and that we make arrangements
with the driver to come back as well. So, we got into
this rather old, gr ay, London-style cab. The restaurant
was only 2km away through crowded, dusty, diesel-smoked,
unlit streets. The restaurant was in an unpretentious
building at the corner of a very busy intersection.
My first reaction was, hmm, I wonder what we are gettin
g into here. There were locales standing around and
talking all over the place outside the restaurant. We
asked the cab driver to come back in an hour. At the
entrance level there was an open well-lit room with
a number of natives in it. But the waiter es corted
us up a winding stairway to a darkened room with Indian-style
decorations. I joked to Bob that they didn't want to
lose business by having a couple of whites in full view
downstairs. Actually this was probably the high-class
room. We were the only ones in the rather large room.
We were immediately served a nice tomato soup and a
plate of breads. When we finished, the waiter pointed
to a buffet table filled with many main course dishes
and deserts. We filled our plates and had a great meal
including seconds and desserts. Several of the foods
had some interesting exotic flavors that I had not experienced
before. While we ate we heard African music being played
along the streets below. Bob remarked that it sounded
a bit like Caribbean music and I said -well, where do
you think that came from! About the time we finished
an Indian family joined us in the room; a good sign
that this was a favored restaurant. When the bill came
we were amazed the price for the two of us came to about
$10! My guidebook was right this is the best deal in
town. Outside we found that our cab driver had waited
for us and we weaved our way back to the hotel, feeling
quite full, and burping up the flavors of the moderately
spicy Indian foods.
It is interesting being a minority to such an extent
as we are here in Kenya. This is not the first time
I have been in such a position. Certainly in China I
was a minority and when visiting outside of Beijing
in the lesser tourist-exposed cities and t owns, we
were stared at and viewed as a curiosity. Not here,
we just seem to meld into the mass of blacks for the
most part. At work and in the lecture room we are treated
as being no different. I find the locals to be openly
friendly and joke and laugh a lot. One time as we were
being driven from the hotel to the Met Office, I joked
to the driver as we stood still in a traffic jam that
this was a "car-park" and I thought he would
die laughing on the spot. They are a very touchy-feely
people as they talk they put their hands on your shoulders,
give you a hung, and it is common to see a couple of
professionals at the Met Office talking and holding
hands as they walk along. I also see this frequently
on the streets. This touchy-feely business is something
I always have a hard time adjusting to as that was something
that was just not done in my early years in Upstate
New York. My son, Chris, always gives me shit about
that and makes a big thing about hugging me now days
as we part company.
The only time I feel we are being stared at is when
we go jogging and that is probably because there are
so few joggers around town. On campus we might see two
or three runners (like they really move!), but that
is it.
12/10/99
It turned out to be a nice sunny day with scattered
cumuli and temperatures in the upper 70's. After a run
with Bob through Nairobi University, I went with a guy
from the Met Service to Sabena Airlines where I was
able to move my return flight up from Friday night to
Monday night. My lecture duties end on Monday and I
hadn't scheduled to depart until Friday because I wasn't
sure what my responsibilities would be through the remainder
of the workshop in my capacity as Chairman, of the International
Prog ram Committee for the workshop. But, as became
clear to me, this was largely a ceremonial position,
so after Monday I wouldn't have any responsibilities.
Since I can only take so much of hanging out in Nairobi
itself, and I have gone soaring and visited M aasai
Mara, and to do anything more in tours would make this
trip very expensive.
I lectured today on the real-time version of RAMS,
on our flash-flood simulations, and on work in progress
or done in the past in which satellite data and radar
data are incorporated in RAMS.
That evening, a Friday nice none-the-less, I couldn't
talk Bob or Craig into "doing" the town, so
we just ate at the hotel. The dinners are OK there but
not much different than one could find in Fort Collins.
If it weren't for me they would have probab ly never
gone out to eat. Bob did want to eat at a restaurant
called the Carnivore sometime, where various exotic
game meats such as antelope, gazelle, and the like were
served. Being a vegetarian, that place didn't seem very
attractive to me.
12/11/99
After Bob and I jogged and I had a light breakfast,
we were picked up at 0800 and taken to Wilson Field
where we caught a flight in a Twin Otter to Mara Serena
Lodge in Maasai Mara National Park. The flight took
45 minutes plus another 15 with stopover s to pickup
and drop passengers at two other lodges. In the low
flights between lodges I saw elephants, giraffes, zebras,
impalas, heart beasts, and other critters. The landing
strip is dirt at each lodge and about 3500ft long.
Mara Serena is situated on a small hilltop surrounded
by scattered trees and bush. The rooms are a cluster
of concrete structures with rounded edges all over,
which are intended to resemble in some way the traditional
Maasai homes. From what I saw of t he thatched-roof
Maasai homes from the air the resemblance is a bit imaginary.
But it is a very pleasant place to stay. I have a thing
about being on a hilltop and overlooking the plains,
so I enjoyed it immensely. It is much drier here than
in Nairobi. This is my kind of place-no horns blowing
all the time, no traffic noise-yes this is life! The
three of us, and a Parisian woman, attended a Maasai
discussion and dance. They described their culture and
then had an all-male dance and even had us participa
te. They are a beautiful people: tall, slim and proud
of their heritage. They maintain a traditional cattle-raising
lifestyle in spite of all the pressures to enter the
20th century. Tourism is the most difficult force that
they fight against.
At 4:00PM we went on a safari onto the savanna. I was
a bit disappointed in it as it was a big game hunt;
with cameras, but still the emphasis was on lions and
cheetahs. I was glad I had taken the tour through Nairobi
National Park where I learned a lo t about the other
animals. We passed impalas, gazelles, and antelopes
with not a stop or even a mention of them unless someone
yelled stop! But we did see three female lions and later
two males. Then at dusk we encountered two cheetahs.
During our first v iew of them the male was attempting
to couple. We followed them along, in my opinion too
closely. It reminded me of kayaking off the San Juan
Islands and seeing this cluster of boats following Orcas.
Here 4 or 5 Toyota Land Cruisers chased these cheetahs.
They snarled once in a while when we followed them,
but they otherwise ignored us. They are beautiful cats
and I enjoyed watching them move through my binoculars.
Later on the plane home I talked to a couple of young
guys that were in the park at the same time we were
but stayed through Monday. That day they encountered
a leopard in a lone-standing tree eating a dik-dik.
He said once it was discovered, it quickl y became surrounded
by Toyota Land Cruisers and safari trucks, where it
growled over the intrusion. It is a bit bothering to
see such behavior of the guides and drivers.
As we returned we passed two herds of elephants. Actually
I would have enjoyed viewing them more with some light,
but I guess they are not big game enough.
12/12/99
We went off on another safari at 0600. It was overcast
at first and almost dark. As we bumped our way across
the countryside we saw more lions, a cheetah, a lone
hippo, numerous gazelles and topees, wildebeests, antelope,
warthogs, and baboons. I kept thinking I was seeing
heart beasts as I saw in Nairobi National Park, but
instead they were called topees. It turns out they are
quite closely related, but the topee has horns that
curve back while the heart beast has horns that curve
forward. One has a b rowner coat than the other, but
I forget which is which. We had an opportunity to view
a loan cheetah pestering a herd of Thompson's gazelles.
It would move close to the herd, and they would scurry
away, the cheetah would move close again and off went
th e gazelle's. They seemed to play this game for a
long while. I guess the cheetah was looking for a sign
of weakness in one of the members of the herd. At the
end of the safari we were taken down to the river at
a place called the Hippo pool. There they ha d tables
set up on the banks over looking the pool and a buffet
breakfast. It was quite pleasant eating there watching
the hippos come up for air and snort, viewing a couple
of mostly submerged crocodiles, while eating an excellent
breakfast in the warm s unny air. Before we noticed
the crocs, Bob walked down the sandy bank to the shore,
and one of the attendants suggested he come right back
up as there were crocs down there.
After returning to our rooms we arranged a nature walk
that was guided by one of our Maasai dancers of yesterday.
The trail basically followed the perimeter of the compound
near the electric fence-line. He told us about the trees,
which ones could be u sed for medicinal purposes, the
birds and mammals that we could see along the way. It
took us 1.5hrs but one could have easily walked it in
25-30 minutes. So there was much stopping and pointing
things out. At one overview point he pointed out a male
ostr ich that was several miles away and further away
a herd of elephant that none of us could see without
field glasses and even then they were hard to find.
His eyesight was phenomenal. Along the trail there were
numerous large spoor droppings that he told u s were
by a hippo that somehow regularly walks across the cattle
guard during the night and enjoys the extra-green vegetation
within the compound and then departs in the morning.
Imagine jogging along that trail which Bob and I considered
first thing in t he morning and coming face-to-face
with a hippo!
One can often see baboons walking around just outside
and even inside the compound. Within the compound, often
along the walkways, sometimes in the trees looking like
live, furry fruit, are these little animals called hyrax.
They are about the size of a groundhog or marmot, and
are brown rather cute critters. Our Maasai guide informed
us that their closest relative is the elephant! As Craig
and I sat outside the central check-in/out counter and
restaurant, waiting to be picked up to go to the airport,
one of these hyrax climbed about in the tree above us.
I walked inside for a minute and when I returned Craig
was hurriedly moving his things inside. I asked him
if it had started to rain, as the skies were very dark
and threatening. He said, well sort of , that hyrax
had proceeded to pee and dump right on him! Craig was
not a happy camper at that moment.
Our flight back to Nairobi was uneventful and we found
the traffic was quite low in density as it was the Sunday
of a three-day holiday.
12/13/99
I gave my last lecture today. It was on predictability
of convective storms. I put it in the framework of a
model with sufficient grid spacing to explicitly resolve
deep convective storms over an area of roughly 500kmX500km.
I said I am reasonably opti mistic that such a model
can provide useful forecasts of precipitation and severe
weather provided:
- It is surrounded by reasonably dense upper and surface data, wind profilers, and ACARS-type data, such as exists in the interior of the U.S.
- It has access to mesoscale data sources such as radar, satellite, and surface observations.
- It has accurate and high-resolution physiographic data that is commensurate with the grid-spacing of such a model (about 2km).
Craig has been trying to load RAMS and supporting software
on the computers here and having little success. He
has been cannibalizing several machines trying to get
one with enough memory to do the job. I joked that we
can't take him anywhere. One week in Africa and he turns
into a cannibal! He is very frustrated but has been
keeping his cool.
12/14/99
Today is the nicest day weather-wise since we have been
in Nairobi. It is drier, almost cloud-free, with temperatures
in the upper-70's. It has waited until I get ready to
leave. Joseph and his sister and our driver dropped
me at the airport and I beg an the 9-hour flight to
Brussels. I almost missed my flight as I was told the
wrong gate and sat there and fell asleep. I heard our
flight mentioned on the intercom and rushed to another
gate.
Another 9 hours in the Airbus. It is obvious this was
built as a joint effort between the British and the
French. No one else could have dreamed such an uncomfortable
machine. The seats are too narrow and too close together
so the seat in front of you is always in your face.
Moreover the control device for the LCD entertainment
center is positioned at the side of the seat when it
is not in your hand. One of the buttons is the call
button for the attendants, which emits this irritating
"bong" every time it is pushed. It seems that
some people with wide hips must be knocking into it
because the "bong" has been going on almost
all night without stop. This happened coming over for
17 hours! I mentioned in a joking way to the attendants
that it must drive t hem crazy. They said yes, indeed,
and on some flights it is even worse. Imagine flying
these things with a full load of wide-butted Americans-continuous
bongs all the way! Another thing that bugs me about
the Airbus is that in the coach section where the rest
rooms are located, there is a bulkhead that sticks out
into the isle, which makes the passageway extremely
narrow. Finally, as I found out on my leg from Brussels
to Dulles, the ventilation system on the plane is marginal
at best. Most planes have ve nts over your head, which
you can open or close, and direct fresher air towards
you. Not so on the Airbus. A passenger in front of me
was farting almost continuously it seems and the stink
would hang around it forever. I felt like standing up
and while le aning over his head, stick my finger down
my throat and barf all over him. But it was as much
the Airbuses fault as his. While waiting for my connection
in Brussels I chatted with an English businessman. I
mentioned my experience flying with Sabena and he said,
well you know what Sabena stands for don't you--Such
a bloody experience never again!
12/15/99
It is 3:00AM and I am up and about wide-awake with jet-lag.
I arrived in Denver at 5:00PM without incident and then
proceeded to miss the 5:55PM Airport Express shuttle
bus to Fort Collins. I was out there at 5:45PM in plenty
of time but somehow I did n't see the bus and had to
wait until the 6:55PM shuttle. I waited outside in the
cold windy air for nearly 45 minutes, and me just coming
from the equator! Vollie met me at the Holiday Inn in
Fort Collins and drove me home where I enjoyed stretching
out and sleeping in a bed, my bed, for a change. By
3:00AM, however, my body decided I had enough of the
good life and I became wide-awake with it thinking it
was 2:00PM in Kenya. Most people have more trouble with
jet-lag going east, as did Bob and Cr aig. They were
nearly basket cases for the first 4-5 days, while I
was sleeping for a minimum of 5 hours and often 7 hours
straight through the night from the start. I, on the
other hand, seem to wake up early when traveling west
as my body clock tells m e it should be time to be up
and about.
It feels great to be home and have been granted an
extra four days to catch up with things at the office
like my mail and e-mail, my student's research progress,
reports and papers overdue, and at home with things
like fixing broken stuff, bringing in firewood and pellets
for the pellet-stove, Christmas shopping and who knows
what all. The only major incident that happened at home
was my 5-year old dog Donner developed a slipped disc
in his back and pinched a nerve, so he lost control
of his hind quart ers. Vollie had to take him to the
emergency ward and now he is taking Predizone and muscle
relaxants and has to be carried up and down stairs for
some time until (and if) he fully recovers. So, Vollie
has had a time of it.
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