9/16/02 - 9/21/02
The purpose of this trip was to attend the AAAS 53rd
Arctic Science Conference. My flight up on Monday the
16th of September was long but uneventful. Hauling my
huge duffle bag to and from the airports was the biggest
challenge. Loaded with my backpacking gear, this 4 foot
tall and 3 foot diameter bag was heavy and cumbersome
to haul around. The plane was late arriving about 1AM
so that it was 2AM by the time I got to bed. Fortunately,
I got to see the Aurora Borialis on the way to the hotel,
which it turned out was the only time I saw it on this
trip.
After sleeping in Jerry Harrington came by Tuesday
morning. We had breakfast together and then visited
UAF. The mountains around Fairbanks were covered with
trees in full color. The hills were golden.
On Wednesday the conference began. In all, I liked
four talks in the conference. The first two were by
James Ovreland on atmospheric connections across Alaskan
ecosystems and then Wieslaw Maslowski on understanding
the ocean circulation, ice conditions, and communications
among Alaska's three seas. The latter used the same
sea-ice model (CICE), Gustavo and Steve installed in
RAMS. The other two papers were near the end of the
conference and were presented by Mathew Sturm and TA
Douglas. Those papers were about the measurements that
were taken in the transect from Nome to Barrel that
Glen Liston (one of the co-authors) was on. I set up
a poster and only a few people other than Jerry and
Peter Olsson even looked at it. Part of the problem
is that they didn't really have a poster session where
everyone came for a set time, had some snacks(preferably
drinks to lubricate the discussions) and chatted about
the posters. Instead we were supposed to post times
we were supposed to be there to discuss the poster.
This procedure was a dismal failure.
Otherwise the week was spent jogging with Jerry Harrington,
going out to dinner in the evenings, and visiting colleagues
at the Geophysics Institute. I did find out another
announcement of opportunity will be forthcoming for
IARC funding, which was one motivation for going to
the meeting. I also met with Jeremy Krieger, who now
works there. Jeremy did everything but his MS under
my supervision. I suggested to him that he consider
a Plan-B masters and told him I'd look into it to see
if he can do it without having thesis credits.
Tuesday and Wednesday were nice and sunny with highs
in the mid-50's. The trees really shown in the bright
sunlight. Somewhat surprising to me, very afternoon
thunderstorms formed and on Wednesday a storm came through
as we went to a reception and it rained steadily for
several hours. Thursday I woke to overcast skies and
rain. Jerry and I ran in the rain, but it was cool and
not too pleasant.
Friday morning Jerry and I planned on hiking in to
a cabin called Styles Creek cabin. The trailhead was
along the Chena Hot Springs road. It was overcast still,
as we drove in and as we glimpsed the hills, it became
apparent that the trees had lost most of their leaves
in the rain and wind of the previous day.
The hike began along a muddy track used by ATV's. At
one point I stepped off the trail into mushy grass and
ended up in the muck almost to my knees. Shortly the
trail headed upwards and we left the mud and muck behind.
We mainly walked through clouds and fogs so we didn't
get many views even though we were walking along a ridge.
There were numerous moose tracks along the way and about
4 miles in we could see bear tracks from a young bear
(probably a yearling) and its mother. We didn't have
bear bells but with Jerry chattering all the time there
was little chance of surprising a bear or any other
critter for that matter. My pack was relatively light
as I only carried enough food and water for a single
night and didn't have to carry a tent. I did pack a
bivy sack in case we couldn't get in the cabin. The
last half mile to the cabin was a steep descent over
leaf-covered wet roots and mud. I slid several times
and with the weight of my pack, I often landed on a
knee or even full down on a shoulder even with my walking
stick to attempt arresting my fall. I didn't get hurt
as the landings were slow and the ground soft but my
clothes were sure muddy! The 8 mile hike into the cabin
took almost exactly 4 hours and we arrived about 3PM.
There is no water along the way or near the cabin but
Jerry had planned ahead and carried about 8 liters of
water (about 16 pounds worth!). It was probably twice
as much as we needed since there was a lot left over
when we headed back.
We immediately set about building a fire and setting
out our gear. In spite of having a water proof cover
on my pack, my sleeping bag got quite wet from brushing
against the wet and snow-covered trees and probably
from my falls. But hanging it near the stove allowed
it to dry out by bed time.
The cabin is a recently rebuilt cut-log cabin with
a loft. It is the nicest looking and biggest cabin I
have seen in the Alaskan state system. With the fire
going we had it in the upper 80's to maybe 90 inside
and had to strip down to our underwear. In fact, I spent
most of the night without using my sleeping bag and
about 4AM finally used it as a blanket even though we
didn't add any wood throughout the night. We spent a
nice evening relaxing, reading, eating our supper (freeze-dried
meals), and drinking wine which I carried in. In the
night it cleared out briefly so that I could see the
stars but no aurora.
We woke in the morning to fog again but after breaking
camp we did get some views as the fog cleared out at
our altitude. We could see the higher peaks covered
by snow and the valley below covered in fog. It was
actually quite pretty. But as we descended we entered
the fog again. The only wildlife we saw were some grouse,
one at the outhouse and a number along the trail. One
kept flying away from us down the trail so we kept flushing
it again and again. In fact the gross we saw later on
could have been the same one. Jerry talked less on the
way down but we still did not see any large animals.
This being the end of moose and probably bear season,
I imagine all the survivors were quite timid.
We were back in the car by 1PM and had a welcome hot
shower, nap, and packed in the afternoon. That evening
we had dinner at Umah Bhatt's and Dave's where they
put on quite a feed of pasta and grilled salmon with
plenty of beer and wine. The view from there deck was
the best I had seen in Alaska this trip. The aspen still
had golden leaves on them and they framed a great view
of the Alaskan range as it developed shadows in the
setting sun. Dave took us up the road a ¼ mile
where we could see Denali through the haze.
While in Fairbanks I sought to replace the worn out
baseball cap I bought in 1999. It had a very nice picture
of a bald eagle in flight on it. I bought it at a restaurant/store
along the China Hot Springs road called Tacks. Unfortunately,
Tacks has since burnt down and is no longer there. So
I looked in Fred Meyers, and then in numerous shops
downtown, then Jerry took me out to the Princes Hotel
and a shop across the street. I finally gave up and
bought a cap with nice trees on it but no eagle. Guess
what? On the airplane down to Seattle, I saw a guy with
the very hat I was looking for. I asked him where he
got it. He said in Fairbanks at the Safeway store which
was right next to the hotel I was staying at. Go figure!
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