2/24/00
I'm back in the saddle again! We just took off from
DIA heading north where I can look down at my home.
On this trip I am going to Fairbanks, Alaska via Seattle
on United and then Alaskan Airlines. This is the second
trip to Alaska for my sabbatical. O n this trip Jerry
Harrington and I will begin work on the now-funded proposal
to IARC that we prepared during my last visit to Fairbanks.
In addition, we will work on an ONR proposal letter
of intent that Jerry is taking the lead on and put finishing
touc hes to a joint proposal we are submitting to NSF/SHEBA.
I will also be presenting an institute-wide seminar
at the UAF Geophysics Institute (GI) and a seminar to
the Fairbanks chapter to the AMS. The former talk will
be more technical on "Extreme Precipit ation Estimation",
while the latter will be much less technical. I call
it, "My Love Affair with Aviation and Meteorology".
For that, I have dug through my old slides and pictures
to present a history of sorts outlining my early interest
in flying and ho w that got me into meteorology. I will
discuss both my own flying experiences and those of
serving as meteorological flight observer on numerous
field programs over the years. I plan to introduce a
number of anecdotes about those field programs and conclu
de with my experiences as sailplane pilot and its relationship
to meteorology.
On all my aircraft flights so far I have used carry-on
baggage only. Not so on this one! I am bringing two
pairs of my own skis, my touring telemark skis (tele's)
and downhill tele's, my ski poles, and another set of
touring-tele's that I bought at Jer ry's request for
his wife, Debra, all in my new ski bag that Chris bought
me for Christmas. I got Debra's skis at the CSU Outdoor
Adventure Program, where they sold new Fisher E-99's
for $125 with bindings. They normally sell for over
$300 with bindings. During his visit to CSU, Jerry bought
a pair for himself after I brought the deal to his attention.
I guess when he got home, Debra decided she would like
a pair, too, so he e-mailed me to see if I could get
another pair. The Adventure Program decided to sell
out that model skis because the students wouldn't rent
them because they were too lazy to use wax. They now
rent either waxless skis or full tele-downhill skis.
In addition to the ski bag I also checked this huge,
almost 5 ft tall and 2ft diameter duffle bag filled
with two pairs of ski boots, my goose-down sleeping
bag, sleeping pad, backpack, and cooking gear, and assorted
long-johns, wool socks, and surviva l gear. Jerry has
rented a cabin for us to ski into one of the weekends
of my visit. Plus I plan to commute by skiing and get
my exercise skiing on the course right on the UAF campus.
Also as carry-on, I am bringing my normal travel pack/suitcase
filled with work-related clothing and shaving kit, and
my daypack that I use for hiking/skiing, filled with
notebook computer and its bag of peripherals, two cameras,
lecture transparencies , and anything that didn't fit
in the other three bags. I am amazed that this plane
got off the ground!
Jerry and Debra met me at the airport and helped me
load all my stuff in the Ford Explorer. We then stopped
to unload the stuff in the Nordic House on campus where
I am staying. It is a rather rustic log-house with two
bedrooms on the main floor, two u pstairs and two in
a finished basement and baths on the main floor and
basement levels. If the place were full it could get
interesting fighting for the bathrooms, kitchen facilities,
etc. But for the moment I have the entire place to myself.
After unloading, we went to the Thai House for supper.
It is the best place in town to eat. I had an excellent
eggplant concoction.
2/25/00
After a good night's sleep in the rather warm Nordic
House, I woke up at 5:30AM (7:30 Colorado time) and
decided to see if a grocery store was open to get breakfast
stuff and groceries for the rest of the week. In a balmy
-15F (the Explorer displays te mperature and compass
heading), I found a Safeway open and got my supplies.
I then headed back and had breakfast, unpacked some
more, and decided to ski to the GI. After a few bad
turns I found a groomed ski trail about ¼ mile
from the cabin and started s kiing to work. Even though
it was now about 0F, I had overdressed and began to
strip off layers. The trail curved along through the
aspen/birch forest and actually came to within 10ft
of the GI parking lot. I took off my skis and marched
in the institute and up to Jerry's office. He wasn't
in yet, so I decided to begin the process of getting
an office and keys, etc. At the IARC office, the woman
at the desk is either on holiday or has left, so a young
lady who didn't know me was there. She had to ask an
other lady who knew me how to go about getting me an
office, keys to the office and building, and parking
permit. That lady didn't seem to want to take any responsibility,
so things moved slowly through the bureaucratic quagmire.
I told them Peter Olsson' s office, which I was previously
assigned, was still vacant and could I get a pass key
to get my stuff out of the hallway? On my previous stay
they had handed me the pass key and I opened the office
and got started. This time I was escorted down to the
of fice with the new lady at the desk, feeling a bit
like an ex-con. But I finally got my stuff out of the
hall and Jerry popped in and said he would get Glen
Shaw, the group leader, to help me get officially assigned
to that office and begin paperwork on ke ys. By the
end of the day, I still didn't have keys, but I did
have a parking permit and an office assigned, with no
way to get into it. I'll probably have to be escorted
to it again on Monday!
Then there was the problem of getting on-line. Jerry
no longer had the computer I used previously, and I
didn't have a local dial-in account for my notebook.
Jerry put out an e-mail requesting a PC for me to use,
and he got several favorable responses. By the afternoon
I had one to telnet home to check my office e-mail.
I also checked with several local server companies and
found one that gave 30 days' free service. Since that
was longer than I planned to be here, I signed up. I'll
see how that goes.
At lunchtime Jerry said,"Let's go skiing."
So we headed out on the trails right next to the office.
It had warmed to 10F and the sun was high enough that
when we crossed Smith Lake, I could actually feel the
sun on my shoulders. The trails were groomed with tracks
and about a 20ft wide swath through the woods. Jerry
took off in his racing track skis and I tried to keep
up in a quasi-skate-skiing mode with my tele-touring
Fisher E-99's. No way Jose! I huffed and puffed along
as he took off down the tra il. He would wait like a
puppy every so often and we did about a 4.5mile tour.
In one straightaway, Jerry really kicked in and disappeared
down the trail. There were moose tracks all over the
trails but no moose today.
After work we met at the Pump House and had some beers,
where I had to listen to the faculty from various departments
(atmos, engineering, business) gripe about UAF. Enough
already. I heard these same gripes back in September!
I ordered a salmon burg er for dinner there, but would
you believe they were out of salmon in Alaska? So, I
had halibut nuggets instead. I stopped by Jerry and
Debra's for a short while and then headed back to the
Nordic House.
2/26/00
The plan was for me to call Jerry at 9:00AM and then
coordinate for some backcountry skiing or skiing around
the groomed trails across town at Birch Hill. Well,
Jerry had a muscle tightened up, probably from showing
up the old man yesterday, so he back ed out. I then
decided to head out for a downhill area to practice
tele turns. I first drove over to the Birch Hill downhill
area, which is on Fort Wainright property, but it didn't
open until noon. Lift tickets were only $10 for servicemen,
but for us civilians it was $25.
I then drove in the other direction, through backcountry
roads to Moose Mountain Ski Area. It operates like the
now defunct Hidden Valley ski area in Rocky Mountain
National Park, in which buses are used to haul skiers
up to the mountaintop. As viewed from the base, the
slopes looked darned steep and very hard packed--fast!
As I am still not much of a tele skier, I was concerned,
but the people there were very friendly. They suggested
I go up to the bunny slope near the top and try that,
then an easy d ownhill run that is called Moose Walk,
which actually is a connecting trail to the base of
the bunny slope and a black diamond run. The bus ride
from the base of the bunny slope to the summit was free,
so the price was right and they mapped out an easier
blue run that I could use if I felt up to it. Then if
I wished, I could pay the $23 or $18 after 1:00PM, or
$18 if it was -10F or colder, which it was at that moment,
to take the bus up and ski down until 5PM. So, I rode
the bus up and did the bunny run ( too easy), and then
took the bus to the summit and skied Moose Walk (also
very easy) 4 or 5 times. At lunchtime I decided to ski
down Sunset to another trail and see how I felt after
lunch. The run down was not as fast as I feared because
of the cold temp eratures, so I handled it well, making
lots of turns when it got steep in spots. I made nearly
a clean run except for one over-turn that left me facing
uphill and down on one knee. I decided not to pay the
$18 because I wanted to leave something in my leg s
for Sunday's planned backcountry ski. I did, however,
drive up to the rental shop at the base of the bunny
area and they let me take a bus to the summit to take
pictures; all for free. It was sunny and the views over
Fairbanks and the Tanana valley wer e just great. The
driver said I should come up at sunset. With the Alpenglow
and shadows, it was spectacular.
That evening I went to Jerry and Debra's for a chili
supper and watched a video.
2/27/00
Jerry arranged for a crew to ski into the Angel Creek
cabin, in which we stayed overnight last fall. Joining
us were Uma Bhatt, with new skis and boots, who works
for IARC; Doug??, who is a faculty member in engineering;
Debra with new skis and boots, and Jerry with new-to-him
boots. It was about 3.5 miles in to the cabin along
a mostly flat trail through a river valley. Temperatures
at the trailhead were about -3F, but by the time we
got to the cabin it had warmed to balmy 10F. Still,
it was nice to b e able to have lunch in the solar-heated
cabin. Along the way, I spied a young moose about 50
meters off the trail. We also saw a number of moose
as we were driving to the trailhead. Debra counted something
like 8 for the day.
It took us about 1.5 hours to ski in. The only snowmobile
we encountered was just after I had stopped at the cabin.
There was also a single ski-jorer who was moving at
a pretty good clip. Even with his dog tugging him, it
was clear he was getting a good workout as his beard
was all iced up. At 10F, we would have been cold stopping
for lunch, so the warmth of the solar-heated cabin was
appreciated by all.
Leaving our packs in the cabin, we played around on
the hillsides doing tele-turns through the woods. The
snow was not too bad for it, but we could have used
a little steeper and longer slope. Peter Olsson had
complained that the snow wouldn't support a skier off
trail, but this was not the case, at least at this time
of year. One had to stay clear of trees, as one does
in Colorado, because the snow doesn't support any weight
at least 5 feet from the tree.
Jerry got a kick out of looking at the hoar frost crystals,
which varied in size and structure from the open areas
to the shaded woods. In the open areas, the crystals
were quite large--several centimeters in diameter, whereas
in the shaded forest areas the crystals were only a
few millimeters in diameter. He suggested that the open-area
crystals experienced higher super-saturations because
of radiative cooling to space, whereas in the wooded
areas, they experienced less radiative cooling due to
down-welling radiation from the trees. Sounds plausible,
and I'll have to put it in my memory bank for a qualifying
exam question in the future.
We then donned our packs and skied back to the cars
in a little over an hour. On the way back we encountered
two women ski-joring with two dogs each, and each woman
pulling a sled filled with overnight gear. They were
moving at an 8-10mph clip. I gather Debra and Jerry
knew one of the women, as she is a librarian at GI.
On the way back we stopped at a general store, restaurant,
etc, called Tacks, and sampled some of their great pies.
Then it was home for a nice hot shower, after which
we met for a pizza. It was an enjoyable day.
2/28/00
I've tried to start my first workday at GI/IARC. I say
tried, because I'm still trying to get an office set
up with computer and telephone, so that I can use my
notebook computer through a local internet provider.
I guess someone has pulled rank on Pet er's old office,
reserving it for visitors who come one day a week. My
options seem to be Jerry's shared computer room, in
which Jerry doesn't have a running computer and where
there is no telephone and no window, or a library office,
one of which has a c omputer and telephone, but it may
be assigned to someone else, or possibly Glen Shaw's
laboratory. But, I have to wait until Glen gets in to
see if that option will work. At least that has a computer,
telephone, and window, and no one is already in the
qu eue for the seat. Boy, they sure make you feel welcome
here!
It was finally decided that I use Glen Shaw's laboratory
for an office. It has computer, a telephone and windows
facing north toward the parking lot and snow-covered
trees. It should work out just fine since no one else
is using it.
Jerry and I took a noon-hour jog along the roads. It
was about 15F, but with the exercise it didn't feel
bad at all.
After a ski back to the Nordic House, I "veged
out," as it was my fast day.
2/29/00
After a bit of trial and error, I finally got my PTI-ALASKA
local computer server account working, so now I can
go on line with my notebook computer at the office and
at the Nordic House. The first thing I did when I got
to the office was to get the si gned forms for getting
a key to Glen Shaw's lab, and then walk the mile+ across
campus to pick up the keys. It was 10AM by the time
I got things set up.
After work I skied back to the Nordic house and then
skied on the trails near there for about an hour. The
trail winds through the forest with very modest up and
down. On the way back I encountered about 5 skiers.
It is a popular sport.
I was starved after all that exercise and made a supper
of "veggie burgers," vegetables, boiled potatoes,
and clam chowder. I then ran the dishwasher, but I used
liquid dishwashing soap because that was all there was.
I used too much! Soap flowed out the door and I was
busy with a mop for almost an hour. So much for being
domestic! It is always a challenge figuring out how
to do things in a strange place.
3/1/00
It is 1 March and the sun is rising about 0800 and setting
1800h, but it is light enough to get around without
lights at 0700 and until 1900. Temperatures have warmed
from a low of -3F to a high of 30F. I again skied to
and from work and over lunch hou r I skied a loop trail
that started near Smith Lake and looped north and east
across a small pond and back to the office. I have started
skiing in the tracks. I get a good workout but the metal
edges of my E-99 touring/tele's grab the edges of the
tracks. I think I get more speed in the tracks, though,
than in the wide skate-ski areas. I am really impressed
by the speed the skate skiers get. I'd like to try that.
I might rent some, one day, and maybe even get a lesson.
It really looks neat seeing these pe ople swaying back
and forth as they cruise along at close to 15mph. I'd
like to talk Vollie into trying it. The Colorado State
Forest is now using a snow cat with groomer for snowmobiles
and that track should be useful for skate skiing. But
a complete out fit of skies, boots, and poles runs about
$350, so I would have to be sure I'd use it.
On the job I have been working on another proposal,
this one anticipating the NASA CRYSTAL RFP. I am also
busy putting out fires back in the office in Colorado
via e-mail. Steve Rutledge, the department head, even
asked me to write up three qualifying exam questions.
I prepared one based on our observations of snow crystals
while skiing this weekend.
I find it a little lonely up here, what with being
alone in this house and being alone in Glen Shaw's large
laboratory. The only people contact is the occasional
talks with Jerry, who of course has his own things to
do, the occasional talk with Glen Sh aw, and brief visits
with the National Weather Service (NWS) people. Speaking
of NWS, it looks like they are going to pay my way to
visit Anchorage and give a talk to NWS people down there
about our mesoscale NWP experience. It now looks like
I will leave Sunday and stay the night at Peter Olsson's
(a former student of mine), then give a talk on Monday
and return Monday evening.
Another factor in my feeling a bit alone is that neither
Jerry nor Glen has any graduate students, so I miss
having chats about science with students. It is the
absence of students up here that bothers Jerry the most,
to the degree that he is consideri ng looking elsewhere.
In my opinion, the only way to fix that problem is to
get the academic stream out of physics and chemistry.
Right now, atmospheric science is not a department but
a program, and faculty members have their tenure lines
in either chemi stry or physics. The students are in
one of those programs. I suggested that they should
form a department of atmospheric and ocean sciences
that builds on the expertise in the GI and IARC. They
could become "the" high latitude academic
center for atmosp heric/ocean/sea-ice/surface land-use
studies and, as such, should be able to build a healthy
student body and faculty. A number of courses could
be of common interest across atmospheric, ocean, and
land surface process studies, including dynamics embedde
d in a geophysical fluid dynamics course, a boundary
layer course in the atmosphere and ocean, a surface
land-use class that covers sea-ice, snow-evolution,
soil/vegetation, and surface hydrology, and atmospheric/ocean
radiation class, a cloud and precipi tation microphysics
class that includes the physics of ice in the atmosphere,
and on land/ocean surfaces, and so forth. I think a
graduate student body of 20-25 students and a stable
faculty of 10-14 members could be attracted to the program.
3/2/00
It is a good thing I am an early riser, since I got
a call from a CNN reporter at 6:00AM. I'm sure he didn't
have a clue about what the time was when he called here.
I just got out of the shower and had to ask him to wait
while I put some clothes on. H e asked me my views on
human influences on climate and weather. I gave him
my skeptic's view that it is very difficult to attribute
cause and effect regarding human influence on climate.
I made the case that climate models are doing sensitivity
experiment s on how increasing CO2 can influence climate,
other things being the same. My point is "other
things aren't necessarily the same". Many other
factors, many of which we don't understand, can influence
climate, so that on time scales of decades or longer
, we have virtually no predictive skill. I told him
what I am doing here and how it fits into the climate
picture. We even talked about sailing.
I spent the day working on my CRYSTAL proposal and
working with Jerry on a budget for a letter of intent
proposal to ONR. Jerry and I ran at noon and the temperature
must have been in the high 30's. Jerry wished he had
worn shorts. When I skied home it was still too warm
and the snow was really slick. I scratched the idea
of skiing when I got back. Instead I took a drive over
to the Fairbanks Airport and another small strip that
I call redneck strip. I took pictures of the airplanes
on skis. On the way back near the university I spied
a moose grazing on willows and even took a picture.
Just when I got in the door, Jerry and Debra called
me and invited me to go out to dinner and have a few
beers. Jerry was frustrated from dealing with the contracts
and grants people. When they stopped to pick me up we
polished off a bottle of Chilean red and had chips and
dip. We went to the Pump House where I had blackened
salmon, which was very good.
3/3/00
After my ski into GI, I spent most of the morning trying
to fix my mail server access. Somehow my Microsoft Outlook
got corrupted when I tried to send e-mails with several
files attached. I think it was because I didn't realize
how long it was taking t o download those files. After
discussion with consultants at PTI ALASKA and help from
Jason Connor back in Colorado, I finally brought up
Microsoft Outlook Excel and was able to go on line again.
One advantage of Excel is that it shows a bar graph
of the transmission of files and it made me realize
just how long it was taking. I guess Outlook wasn't
really corrupted. It was just tied up downloading those
files.
I then worked on the CRYSTAL proposal and then Jerry
came by to do a lunch hour ski. We did the loop trail
I took mid-week, only this time in reverse. It was another
intense workout for me trying to keep up with him on
his racing skies and me with my m etal-edges digging
into the track walls. I gave up on the tracks and did
most of the run trying to skate ski with those heavy
boards. It was another beautiful day and I certainly
got some exercise.
Then Jerry convinced me to go to the Chowder House
to get some clam chowder. It was good. Actually any
liquid would have been great by then. Then it was back
to work. After that, a bunch of us met at the Pump House
for some beers and food.
I've got a full weekend scheduled: going downhill with
Jerry and Debra to teach them basic telemark skiing
techniques, and then at 4:30PM I have a mushing trip
scheduled. On Sunday I fly down to Anchorage at the
NWS' expense to visit Peter Olsson, a fo rmer student
of mine, and give a talk to the NWS on Monday.
3/4/00
I am sitting at the kitchen table in the Nordic House
polishing off a bottle of Australian Jacob's Creek Shiraz-Cabernet
and reflecting on the day's activities. Sitting here
alone without Vollie is definitely the down side of
the day. By the way, the b est buys in wines in Fairbanks
are either Aussie wines or Chilean. California wines
tend to run as much as $4-5 more per bottle, yet the
Aussie and Chilean wines are quite good.
After a leisurely breakfast, I picked up Jerry and
Debra at 9:30AM and drove up to Moose Mountain ski area.
I drove to the rental shop, which is where the free
shuttle buses run to the top of the bunny run and the
summit, where one can ski the Moose Wa lk green run.
I then attempted to explain what I knew about telemark
skiing, which is not all that much. I gave them my son,
Bill's, instructions. Jerry seemed to follow them pretty
well, but Debra reminded me of Vollie in that she wouldn't
work through the pains of learning new techniques but
pretty much stuck to her snowplowing specialty. They
began by skiing down a 100m or so and then walking back
up and trying it again. Eventually I tired of this and
skied down to the bus and back to the top of the b unny
run, where I met them for another try. They eventually
made it down the bunny run and I convinced them to try
Moose Walk. It has, for the most part, a gentler slope
than the bunny run, but it is ¼ mile longer.
On the first try, Debra walked the firs t 10m. After
that, she snowplowed down that segment. The rest of
the run was pretty easy. We had lunch outside on a deck
overlooking Fairbanks in the warm, 28F temperatures.
I brought my lunch but they bought veggie burgers prepared
at a grill at the summit. It was very pleasant up there.
At that point, they decided to make a last Moose Walk
run and I went down the blues to the bottom. The snow
was warming up so I could cut my turns just fine. I
had a little trouble on one really steep slope and over-
turned once. On the lower third of the run they had
a race going, so that I was confined to a narrower track,
which made an otherwise easy run more challenging. I
fell a few more times than I had done previously.
I dropped Debra and Jerry off, went back to the Nordic
House and took a nap. Then I drove up to Ann Woods'
house to go mushing. Ann is a librarian at GI and I
gather her 18-year-old daughter is the real mushing
enthusiast. While she is in Iceland as an exchange student,
Ann is attempting to keep the team in shape. Ann had
some library function to attend, so we arranged to meet
at 4:30PM. I arrived before Ann did, so I decided to
get acquainted with the dogs. There were 10 dogs posted
out behind the hou se. They are all mixed breeds with
some obvious Siberian blood in them as well as who knows
what? Six or so of them were very friendly. I could
approach them and pet them and get acquainted. Several
were weird to strangers, typical of kennel dogs that
h ave not bonded to people. There were buckets and shovels,
so I decided to do chores and pick up the dog crap.
This settled down the weird ones as I just wandered
around with the shovel.
Eventually Ann came home. We loaded the dogs in an
old (1979) Ford pickup truck and took them about 100m
across the road. The dogs were heavier than what I used
to run, as they seemed to weigh about 65-75 pounds.
I preferred dogs in the 45 to 50 poun d range. This
made loading and unloading them quite a chore. We set
up two gang lines, one for me with 5 dogs and one for
Ann with 4 dogs. I got this old, homemade sled that
must have weighed a ton, and Ann used a toboggan sled
much like what I had. We se t the dogs in harness and
they proceeded to tangle themselves between the two
teams. Eventually we got them sorted out and Ann started
out with me following. The trail was full of snowmobile
moguls, so it was a rather bumpy ride. The trail meandered
throu gh the black spruce swamp, and some of the turns
were rather challenging. I was glad I was experienced,
even though it was 15 (yikes!!) years ago. An inexperienced
driver would have been tossed on some of those hairy
turns. We went out about an hour, mean dering who knows
where. I would have had difficulty finding my way back,
as we crossed and crisscrossed tracks numerous times.
Near the end, we came head-on with another team in which
the driver had several young dogs running free. This
created some inter esting moments as the dogs sniffed
each other and mixed up the lines. I kept my dogs in
line and they got through clean, but Ann had to straighten
out her team after the incident.
I enjoyed the scenery of the reddish-colored sun setting
behind mountain peaks as we quietly mushed through the
tundra. For those of you not familiar with running dogs,
they do not bark when running. They are too busy breathing
to do that. In fact, the noise they make is less than
a cross-country skier makes touring through the backcountry.
On many occasions, I have overtaken a skier and had
to yell to them to clear the trail, as they didn't hear
me coming. So, in stark contrast to a snowmobile, you
ar e out in the wilderness, quietly gliding through
the snow and enjoying the scenery. Except for sharp
turns, you can look about, look behind you, and not
concentrate on where you are going. The dogs take care
of that for you. It is great. That was what it was like
in the old days when horses were the main form of transportation.
A guy could go out and get polluted on drinks, get his
horse and buggy under way and wake up to find himself
at home. A musher friend of mine came home after having
had too many dr inks. He decided to check on his dog
team before coming to bed. This was in the winter and
quite cold, and he passed out in the dog pen. His wife,
who was also rather inebriated, went to bed, woke up
the next morning and noticed her husband wasn't beside
her. Eventually she went out into the dog pen and found
her husband beneath a pile of dogs. They saved his life!
Now try to get your new Beemer or SUV to do that!
It was great to run a dog team for the fun of it; especially
since I don't have to feed them, vet them, shovel dog
shit, and all the work that comes with the territory.
I'm almost finished with Jacob's Creek, so it must be
time to hit the sack, leaving me fresh to pack for Anchorage
in the morning. I hate to leave Alaska, but you know
the nice thing about Anchorage is that it is only 30
miles from Alaska!
3/5/00
I was fortunate that the north side of the Alaska Range
was clear. I asked for a right side window seat because
on my previous flights Denali (Mt. McKinely) was always
on my right going to Anchorage. Not this time however.
But I was able to move to a w indow seat while the pilot
came in closer than any flight previously. He even banked
around the summit. I took a number of shots of it with
my SLR. I hope they come out. It is a very impressive
mountain to view up close-far away for that matter!
I don't think I'll be climbing that mountain.
Peter and Wolfy met me at the airport. Wolfy has grown
much taller and slimmer since I saw him last. We drove
across Anchorage and into the beautiful Eagle Valley.
Peter's house is on a south-facing slope with an open
view of the rugged, snow-covered m ountains to the south.
There you can see avalanche chutes, cirques and bowls.
The valley is probably 10 miles across but the mountains
are high enough that they block the winter sun from
shining on their house. They are just now enjoying solar
heating aga in.
Peter took me up the valley about 5 miles to Eagle
River State Park for a walk. The parking lot at the
visitor center was a sheet of ice. Now I know the meaning
of overflow parking lot! I was concerned about what
the trail would be like. Would it be i ce? Mud? Post-holing
snow, or what? Well, it was hard packed snow that was
very easy to walk on once we got clear of the parking
lot. The trail meandered through cottonwood and birch
forest just above the Eagle River. We eventually came
to a rental yurt, where I took pictures of the stovepipe
setup for helping me set up a stovepipe in my yurt.
Walking out on the river ice gave us open views up and
down the valley.
It was then to bed. I woke about 6:00AM to the sound
of a gasoline-powered generator very close to my head.
It was their Siamese cat purring away. It sat on my
chest and stuck its face into mine, smelling my breath,
and tickling me with its whiskers. I t then curled up
in my arm and purred away until I got up to shower.
They also have a Manx cat that likes to play chase the
string and sit on my lap.
We drove to Peter's office at the UAA Aviation Technology
Center, which is located at a general aviation airport
called Morrill Field. He has open, spectacular views
of the mountains to the east right from his office.
As far as his job is concerned, ho wever, it is pretty
much a one-man show. With the loss of FAA funding, it
is going to be a long, uphill battle to establish a
research program on his own, especially without much
infrastructure or mentoring.
We then drove downtown to grab some lunch before my
talk at the regional NWS office. We must have tried
half a dozen restaurants before we found a place open.
Downtown Anchorage pretty much shuts down during the
off-tourist season.
I gave my talk to a mix of NWS regional headquarters
people, including the director, and to forecasters and
the MIC from the Anchorage office located at the airport.
They seemed genuinely interested in what I had to say
about our experience in mesoscal e numerical weather
prediction and its applications to aviation in particular.
There was a lot of discussion. I got the impression
they provide a lot of moral support (though it is unlikely
much else) for Peter's plans for mesoscale NWP in Alaska.
I then grabbed the 4:55PM flight, delayed to 5:30,
back to Fairbanks. It was clear, but our flight took
us quite some distance south of Denali and with the
sun setting on it, the sky was hazy and it certainly
wasn't as spectacular as on my flight over.
3/6/00
Since I lectured and visited in Anchorage yesterday,
I did my weekly fast today. This didn't stop me from
taking a noon-hour jog with Jerry. Then I rented a set
of skate skies and took a lesson at 6:00PM at Birch
Hill touring area. The lesson lasted 1 .5hr and I was
mentally exhausted from trying to get everything together
in a single lesson. Skate skiing is a bit like dancing.
It is also somewhat like speed ice-skating. I first
had to learn how to get my poles on right and how to
pole. Then we put the poles away and worked on using
my edges and pushing off with swinging my arms in a
rhythm. Then I tried putting it together with poling
and skating-sure! I have rented the skies for 3 days,
and now I am sure that it won't be enough to learn much
about th at sport. Yet, when Fairbanks ---. So, I'll
give it a try.
I understand I missed another spectacular aurora display
last night. This time it was only 9:00PM, and not only
was I up, but I was outside. Unfortunately, the lights
around town and near the Nordic House make it hard to
see it.
3/8/00
I skied to GI for the last time today. In the afternoon
I gave a talk on "extreme precipitation estimation"
to NWS meteorologists and GI scientists. It went well
and I had a number of questions. Later in the afternoon,
I met up with Jerry and tried to keep up with him on
his racing skies while I used the skate skies. That
was a big mistake. I had trouble doing any of the uphill
climbs. I suggested that he go on and continue his loop
run while I headed back to a groomed lake where I could
better practi ce skate skiing. I started to get the
hang of skating and poling as I went around the lake,
first in one direction, and then in the other. Then
I tried to ski uphill to the Nordic House and, again,
I just couldn't get enough edge in to power me in a
skate mode up the hills. It was pretty much herringbone
climbs up the hill. Because I was working so hard with
my inefficient stride and the temperatures were about
30F, I just got soaked from perspiration and I was pooped!
I took a shower before Jerry picked me up to have dinner
at the Wolf Run Coffee and Dessert House. Even though
the pasta dish I was eating was rather large, I had
burned so much energy that I had no problem finishing
it and eating one of their fantastic desserts.
Later I decided to put up a few groceries and stopped
by Gulliver's Book Store, where Debra was working that
evening. I bought a book, and Debra asked if Jerry had
bought her a dessert. I said nope, and went back and
picked some kind of sinful brownie for her. When I got
back to the bookstore, Jerry was there to pick up Debra.
He said, "you are dead" when he saw I bought
her dessert. Debra and another clerk said no you are!
Oops, stuck my foot in that one. It was all in good
fun.
3/9/00
After working about 3 hours, I took off for a jog. I
could jog along a snowmobile track, as the packed snow
was hard enough. It was chilly, probably about 10F,
when I jogged. A large dog of northern breed stock adopted
me and ran with me around the fie lds and back to GI.
I hope he got back home all right.
At lunchtime I gave a talk to the local chapter of
the AMS. As requested, I gave a historical talk, which
I called "My love affair with aviation and meteorology".
Using slides and transparencies, I documented my interest
in flying and how that got me a cquainted with meteorology,
how I worked as an airborne meteorological observer
at Penn State, working for NOAA, and at CSU on various
field projects. I concluded with a discussion about
soaring and soaring meteorology. I think they all enjoyed
it and it seemed to be what they were looking for in
terms of the type and level of presentation. After a
conference call that Connie Uliaz has scheduled with
Scott Denning, Bob Walko, Mel Nicholls, Jerry Harrington,
and me, I plan on taking a few turns around the lake
with the skate skies before I return them to the rental
shop.
My visit here at GI is drawing to a close. Tomorrow
Jerry and I ski to a cabin for the night. I am turning
in my keys at the office and have completed travel papers,
so that I can leave without someone here trying to track
me down.
That evening Jerry and Debra picked me up, and we went
to the ice-art festival. It is totally amazing what
they can do, carving ice sculptures. All the effort
that goes into them! And it is so transient. We saw
some of the artists with their chainsaws and hand tools,
carving away, dressed in snowmobile type outfits, covered
in ice powder. I thought I had dressed warm enough,
but I still chilled down after walking about in the
10F air. It is the first time that I have felt cold
here. Of course I had be en very active while outdoors,
not strolling along among the ice sculptures. There
are artists from Alaska, Russia, Canada and other parts
of the world. One class of sculpture is made out of
a single block of ice. What planning has to go into
those! Othe rs are made out of multiple blocks. Most
of those were in the construction stages. Large hoists
were used to stack the carved blocks together to make
these large works of art. We will go Saturday night
to see the finished products. I will wear more cloth
es next time.
We then went to our favorite Thai restaurant downtown.
It was great as usual.
3/10/00
I rose at 6:00AM and made a large breakfast of hash
brown potatoes and scrambled eggs mixed with the leftover
Thai food from the previous night. I then went to a
bagel shop to get tomorrow's breakfast, and picked up
Jerry and his gear. Driving up the C hena Hot Springs
road, we saw one Bull Moose grazing along the roadside.
We reached the trailhead for the Colorado Creek cabin
at about 8:30AM. The temperature was about 3F. I donned
my 55 lb pack and Jerry his, and we headed up a hard-packed
snowmobile trail. There were bicycle tracks on the trail.
When we got to the cabin, they had signed the register
and stated it took them1.5h to bike in; almost half
the time it took us. I gather from the logbook that
they have biked the track several times.
After about half a mile, the trail went up a steep
slope with a pronounced curve on it. It was steep enough
that I had to sidestep up it. After that, the trail
climbed, but not so steeply. It rose through Birch forest
with black spruce mixed in. At one point, it passed
over a branch of the Colorado Creek where there was
some overflow ice, but it was not bad to get over. Our
biggest problem was that the combination of the hard-packed
snow and our heavy packs, which flattened the skies
so they didn't hav e a wax pocket, stripped the wax
off our skies in about 30 minutes. We stopped once to
re-wax, but for the most part we had to compensate on
the climbs up the hills and snowmobile moguls by kicking
hard in a sort of skate ski step or full herringbone
step . This really stressed the inside calf muscles.
Although it was cold, I perspired like crazy, as it
was hard to find the optimum dress. If I down-dressed
too much, then I got cold in the exposed, windy areas.
Then I had to wear a hat that covered my ears for fear
of frostbite. I had my wind-block jacket unzipped at
the pits, but still it was warm.
The day was clear, as it has been almost every day
I've been up here, and the views of the snow-covered
mountains, such as Chena Dome, were spectacular. Almost
every foot of the trail had large moose tracks along
it, but we didn't see any moose. After almost three
hours, we made it to the cabin. The cabin is a log shed
structure about 20'X25', with widows on the northeast
corner and a nice view across a meadow of Chena Dome.
On the opposite corner to the windows was a barrel-type
stove with a platform for heating things. In another
corner were double bunks that could sleep 4 people.
I claimed the lower bunk and Jerry claimed the upper.
We immediately set to work building a fire and then
had lunch, both of us having our thermos of hot water
to prepare instant soups. Then I sawed a tree that someone
had left at the saw platform, and Jerry went out for
some more wood. By the time that w as done, the cabin
had heated to a toasty 80F.
We then went searching for some open hills to play
on with our tele skies. The snow consisted of aged crystals
that had developed these large hoar frost crystals.
Generally the skis sunk in only three or four inches
and those crystals made for fast gli des. Near trees
and bushes, there was no support at all and one would
sink in as much as three feet. The hills that looked
open from a distance were actually covered by small
birch and willows, so it was next to impossible to find
a tele slope. At one poi nt I thought I found enough
space to make turns down a hill only to catch a ski
tip in a small black spruce and do a major face plant.
It took me a good 5 minutes, with Jerry's help, to dig
out of the hole I made.
We returned to the cabin and Jerry went about sawing
the trees he had collected. I started the unending process
of melting snow for water. I also took a little nap.
Then we started boiling some water for our backpacking
foods. Jerry had some pasta stu ff and I some Nepalese
rice and beans concoction. I opened a bottle of Australian
Merlot and the two of us devoured portions of food supposedly
intended for four. Of course that was four adults that
had been sitting on their butts, not two guys carrying
h eavy packs uphill for 5.7 miles.
We then watched a video-gotcha! And fell asleep. After
a few hours Jerry came panting like a puppy from the
upper bunk and set up camp on the floor; also like a
puppy. All that hot air stabilized at the top bunk level.
Even in the lower bunk, with the stove well damped,
I never zipped up my sleeping bag. It was 10F or colder
outside, and the wind was howling at 25-30kts.
Several times I got up in the night to visit the outhouse
and enjoy the views of the Aurora Borealis. This was
the first time I had seen it this trip. On the northern
horizon was a greenish arc and overhead were two bands
that waved about. At my 5:30AM visit, the sky looked
like it was cloudy with large patches of Aurora covering
much of the sky overhead.
We woke to still stronger winds and built up the fire.
We had breakfast consisting of bagels with cream cheeses
and freeze-dried huevos rancheros. We then packed our
gear, groaned and hoisted on our packs, and headed down
to the car. It was a lot easie r this time, and we made
it back in less than two hours. We both took off our
skis to go down that very steep section, as our packs
made it difficult to snowplow slowly, especially as
one ski would get stuck in snowmobile ruts and with
that weight it was difficult to lift a ski out of it.
We made it in one piece, loaded up the car, and headed
to Tack's for brunch. Jerry had two huge pancakes and
fried potatoes, and I had a large, veggie half sandwich
on homemade bread and some veggie chili. It was great!
We even got to watch a sled dog race along the way.
I dropped Jerry off and then took a shower and a nap.
I then met Jerry at the sled dog club where the North
American Limited championship sprint sled dog race was
being held. I wanted to see the dogs that a Swedish
couple was running. They were a mix o f German Pointer
and English Pointer hunting dogs and husky, but they
had a greyhound look, seemed to me. Egil Ellis and his
wife both ran teams. She had the A-team and he the B-team.
By he end of the second day, she was way out front and
he second in t he 8-dog class. Today's run was 10.5
miles and she finished in about 32 minutes. That is
moving!
Compared to Colorado, where the race start gates were
usually held in an open meadow and then the teams disappeared
in the woods after 30 seconds for 30 minutes or so and
the spectators stood around freezing, this was upscale
mushing. The race start ga te was 20 feet from the large,
heated, log clubhouse, where spectators could eat hot
foods when they got cold or hungry. Moreover, the course
snaked through an open field, so that spectators could
see the dogs going and coming for some 5 minutes or
more. The trail looked very nicely groomed as well.
I mean they really do things right up here.
At 7:00PM, Jerry and Debra came by to take me to the
ice-art festival again. This time I dressed in my warmest
clothes and felt quite comfortable. Artists were still
working on the large multi-ice block sculptures but
many were complete enough to get a full appreciation
of them. Also the single-block sculptures were lighted
in various colored lights that really enhanced them
and made them look more spectacular than in the day-
time. We also viewed, and participated in, the kiddy
section, where one coul d slide down ice slides, sit
in ice chairs and even mush an ice sled dog team.
We left with aurora views coming and going overhead.
3/12/00
In the morning I began the project of getting all my
stuff packed. It is quite a challenge getting everything
stuffed in my large duffel bag, ski bag, and carry-on
bags.
Then I went out to the Birch Tree Hill downhill ski
area in Fort Waynwright. The ski area opens at noon
and runs into the night, under lights, until 9:00PM.
It charges $10 for military, and $25 for civilians.
I was prepared to pay the $25 but the guy a t the desk
asked how old I was, and when I said 59 I got in free!
What a deal. It has one double-chair lift and one rope
tow for the bunny slope. Now this may not be Aspen or
Vail, and the snow rarely is fresh powder, but it is
just right for practicing t elemark turns. So I spent
a couple of hours going up and down the slope under
partly cloudy skies. There was only moderate use of
the slopes and no lift line whatsoever. Then I headed
back to complete my packing before going to Jerry and
Debra's for a par ty. At the party, they had lots of
veggie food and I gave a PowerPoint slide show.
The beauty of Fairbanks, if you like winter sports,
is that everything is close. The drive to Birch Hill
ski area took 15 minutes and to the more respectable
Moose Mountain ski area takes about 25 minutes. I could
have gone to the North American limit ed sled dog races
with world-classes mushers in 10 minutes, or gone X-country
skiing or skate skiing practically out my door. The
time it took to get to the trailhead for Colorado Creek
cabin was about 45 minutes, and to visit Jerry and Debra
in the count ry in the hills, it takes 10 minutes, or
10 minutes to a world-class ice-art festival. Moreover,
from the quiet country setting where Debra and Jerry
live it takes 10 minutes to go to two major shopping
centers, a movie, or to work at the University.
Compare that to where I live outside of Fort Collins
in a similar country setting, admittedly with super
views and almost year-around great weather. It takes
1.5 to 2 hours to get to a downhill area not much better
than those close to Fairbanks, and al most 3 to over
4 hours to get to the top ski areas in the state, while
fighting some of the worst bumper-to-bumper driving
you will ever experience. To go X-country skiing, it
takes us 1.5 to 1.75 hrs, and there are few places with
prepared trails for ska te skiing. Of course, you can't
beat the powder or the views. To view or participate
in sled dog races, you have to go to the major ski areas,
involving 3 to 6 hours of driving. One of the reasons
I quit mushing was because of the hassle of driving
to and from the races. From where I live, it takes 35
to 45 minutes to get anywhere in town, and nearly that
to get to the office. Although I prefer where I live,
Fairbanks offers a lot of advantages that few people
appreciate. They think of the dark, cold win ters, but
that amounts to 2.5 months at most. Think about it:
few places don't have at least that many months of pretty
darned disagreeable weather. Where I live in the Colorado
Foothills, November, March, April, and part of May can
be pretty miserable. N otice, I didn't say the deep
winter months because I like the cold, dry, sunny winter
days in Colorado, where one can play in the snow. It
snows a lot in the springtime in the Front Range, but
it is warm, yucky snow that melts and turns to mud in
a few da ys, and if you are like me and spend a lot
of time in the high country playing in the snow, you
are burned out of snow-related activities come mid-March
anyway. When I lived in Florida, mid-May to mid-October
are barely tolerable months with the high humi dity
and high temperatures, yet the remaining months of the
year are just great. And so it goes. Every place has
it down period, and Fairbanks certainly has its share,
but late February, March, and maybe early April can
be great. It's hard to beat late M ay, June, July, August,
and early September with the warm, long days, and brilliant
fall colors.
My second trip to Alaska this sabbatical is over as
I wait for connections at Seattle. Flying from Fairbanks
to Anchorage, we didn't get very close to Denali and
the summit was partly obscured by clouds. No more flights
for my sabbatical, but plans ar e for Vollie and me
to drive to Tucson in middle April for a couple of weeks.
I will be giving a seminar and interacting with colleagues
in Atmospheric Physics and in Hydrology and Water Resources.
I expect the temperatures will be a bit warmer than
Fair banks!
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